The Lost Coast Pb
Author | : Drew Kampion |
Publisher | : Gibbs Smith |
Total Pages | : 220 |
Release | : 2009-09 |
ISBN-10 | : 1423610164 |
ISBN-13 | : 9781423610168 |
Rating | : 4/5 (64 Downloads) |
Download or read book The Lost Coast Pb written by Drew Kampion and published by Gibbs Smith. This book was released on 2009-09 with total page 220 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfers read the patterns of the sea like others read a book. For them, the organization of swells and currents and the curling folds of the waves are elements of a natural language, as coherent in structure and meaning as any taught in school. Each of the eighteen stories in this collection is a raw glimpse of surf life-from sliding into cold, stiff neoprene to experiencing the ecstasy of the Pure Art of Surfing. Most previously published in magazines over the past thirty-five years, the stories in this collection capture the movement, mythology, fantasy, and philosophy of surf life and culture on the sweet and ragged wild edge of beauty.